of london



(No Model.) M'. L. LION 8vv F. CUTLAN MANUFAGTURB 0F BOOTS 0R sHoEs.

No. 876.411. Patented Jan. 10, 1888.

N. PETERS, Pmwmnngmpner, wnhingm n.0.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..

MICHEL L. LION, OF LONDON, AND FREDERICK 4CUTLAN, OF CASTLE HILL,

WELLINGBOROUGH, ASSIGNOR TO THE A13-INTRA BOOT MAKING PRO- CESS COMPANY,(LIMITEDQ OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

MANUFACTURE oF BOOTS oa SHOE-s.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 376,411, dated January10, 1888.

Application led vMarch 3l, 1887. Serial No. 233,151. (No model.)Patented in England August 23, 1836, No. 10.751; in France March 17,1887, No. 182,237; in Germany March 22, 1887, No. 40,915; in Belgium May12, 18:57, No. 77,037; in Italy May 14,

1887, XXI, 21,674, and in Spain July 21,1887, No. 6,9-11.

To all whom, it may concern: c

Be it known that we, MICHEL LION LION,

of 32 Chiswell Street, London, England, boot-v to fore been granted tous by the Government of Great Britain, dated August-23, 1886;V France,dated March 17, 1887, No. 182,237; Germany, dated March 22, 1887Belgium, dated May 12, 1887, No. 77,087; Spain, dated July 21, 1887, andItaly, dated May 14, 1887, Vol. 21, No. 21,674,) ofV which the followingis a specifica tion. c

This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture ofboots and shoes, 2O whereby they can be made more readily andeconomically than heretofore,of a better shape and finish, and also moredurable and comfortable in wear. For this purpose, according to ourpresent improvements, we manufacture boots and shoes by lasting theupper of the boot or shoe to the inner sole, and attaching the outersole by means of nails, rivets, or screws, or other suitable fasteners,in the following manner: First, we prepare a headed barbed fastener(nail, rivet, or screw) a little less in length than the total thicknessof materials or substances into which it is to be driven. This fastenermay be made of iron or other suitable material, flanged and terminatingwith a cone at its point. Ve then, without previously punching holes,drive or force these barbed fasteners or nails through the innersole,about a quarter of an inch from the edge all round, by means ofsuitable machinery, and the fasteners,thus forcibly driven through thematerial of the inner soles, are firmly and rigidly retained thereby,the flat heads of the nails being flush with the surface of the faceside of the inner sole and toward the wearers feet. rlhe lining or sockis then solutioned, or affixed in any convenient manner, to the facevside of the inner sole over the heads of the fasteners. The inner sole,thus prepared with fasteners and soek,is then inverted and placed on anordinary iron last, the heads u of the nails or fasteners being againstor to` ward the last and thepointsstandingup. The upper is now put overthe last and drawn tight upon the said last by means of a suitable tool,andthe edges of the upper are forced down over the inverted points ofthe fasteners, one at a time, by means of a hammer and hollow tool orpunch, with which the operator presses down the leather by placing itover the point of each nail or fastener separately, and then hammers itdown, and thus forces each such. nail to pierce through the upper,and'presses the latter right down against the inner sole without bendingor impairing the nail,which, passing up the center of the hollow tool orpunch, need not be touched thereby, thus leaving thesaid nail stillrigid and firmly embedded iu the inner sole with upper attached and thepoints still rigidly projecting upward, of suf- Y cient length toreceive the outer sole thereon. The upper is thus made to take the exactshape of the last, and is held in 'this .position at all points by thesaid nails or fasteners only until the sole is fixed downthereon and theboot or shoe completed. The outer sole and the heel' are prepared andnished complete, and the oueer sole withV heel attached is then placedin positionon the points of the fasteners and forced down by a press orhammer tight against the upper. All the parts are thus securely fastenedtogether, and the boot or shoe is now complete and may be removed fromthe last.

It will be obvious that the precise process of manufacture hereinbeforedescribed may 8' be varied in some of the minor details-aas, forinstance, the outer solecan be attached without the heel and the boot orshoe completed, save the heel, which can be attached and finishedsubsequently in the ordinary way; also, in some cases the barbed nailsor fasteners are not used round the heel part, the upper being affixedto the inner sole at such part of the heel in the ordinary manner.

And in order that our invention may be the more easily understood andreadily carried into practice we will proceed to describe the same withreference to the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a plan of the under side of the innersole-A, with nails or fasteners driven by asuitable nail-driving machinedirectly through such inner sole (without previously punching orpiercing holes therefor) and projecting upward. Fig. 2shows side view oflast D, the inner sole A, with fasteners B, and the lining or sock C,solutioned on, being inverted on the last D. Fig. 3 is same view as Fig.1, with the edges of the upper E drawn over and forced'down, as beforedescribed, upon the points of the fasteners B, which pierce through.Fig. 4 is a similar View to Fig. 2, showing the upper E lasted to theinner sole, A, and the points of the fasteners B projecting sufficientlyto receive the outer sole, F, and heel F', attached thereto. rlhe outersole, F, and heel F are finished and completed before being fixed orclosed down onto the upper and inner sole. Fig. 5 shows the outer solo,F, and heel F, attached thereto, closed down on the points of thefasteners B', which thus hold the outer sole securely without comingthrough. The outer sole, F, and heel F are closed down by hammering orpressing, and the boot or shoe is now complete and may be removed fromthe last D. Fig. 6 shows, on a larger scale in elevation and plan, theform of barbed nail or fastener B which we tind it advantageous toemploy.

Having now particularly described and aseertained the nature of our saidinvention and in what manner` the same is to be performed, we wouldremark that we are aware that barbpointed nails and staples havepreviously been used in the manufacture of boots and shoes, but in avery different manner, and the attempts hitherto to use such fastenershave been im practicable, or these previous methods could not be adaptedfor the kind of work we can produce by our process; that therefore wemake no claim, separately, to the barbing of fasteners; but

Vhat we do claim as novel and as our own invention is- The processherein described of manufacturing boots and shoes, which consists of thefollowing steps: first, driving metallic fasteners, with barbed hooks orpoints, through the inner sole near the edge thereof; secondly,fastening the lining or sock on the inner sole over the heads of thefasteners; thirdly, placing the inner sole, with the fasteners andlining, on an iron last; fourthly, drawing the edge of the upper overthe points of the fasteners, and, finally, pressing or hammering thefinished sole onto the points ofthe fasteners, substantially as setforth.

M. L. LION. F. CUTLAN.

\Vit n esses:

H. BIRKBUK,

31 Souhampon Buildings, London. VALTER J. SKERTEN,

17 Graccchurch Street, London, E. C'.

